Site Work Questions and Answers

Late summer and fall are usually best: dry ground, full road loads and no nesting season. Spring is the hardest because of half-load restrictions and wet ground. Read the full guide

Often, yes. Frozen ground carries the machines with less rutting, and winter is outside the general bird nesting period of early April to late August. Read the full guide

Generally March 1 to April 30. In 2026 it ran March 9 to April 30 at 5 tonnes per axle. Read the full guide

It is difficult. Fill and sand freeze, a bed cannot be properly placed on frozen ground, and inspections are harder, so most installs wait for thawed, drier ground. Read the full guide

Spring shows the highest ground water. Septic and grading designs need the seasonal high water table, and a spring test pit shows it best. Read the full guide

Book in spring or early summer. We book up for fall, and so do most crews in the area. Read the full guide

Usually about March 1 to April 30, set each year by each road authority. In 2026 Tiny ran March 9 to April 30, Springwater lifted April 28 and County of Simcoe roads lifted April 27. Read the full guide

On restricted roads, no commercial vehicle or trailer may carry more than 5,000 kg, or 5 tonnes, on any axle. That rules out full gravel and stone loads. Read the full guide

Restrictions follow road conditions. In 2024 improving weather and road conditions let Tay, Oro-Medonte and Collingwood lift on April 17 and Essa on April 18. Read the full guide

Usually not in full loads. Some suppliers run small part loads, and a few named roads are exempt, but expect to pay much more per tonne or to wait until restrictions lift. Read the full guide

Yes, the County of Simcoe sets its own reduced load period on listed County roads. In 2026 those restrictions were lifted April 27. Read the full guide

Check the town's news or public notices page in late February, or call public works. Dates change every year with the weather. Read the full guide

No. There is no provincial licence for excavating, so check insurance, WSIB, references and the written contract. Septic installers are different and must be qualified and registered (BCIN) under the Building Code. Read the full guide

The Ontario government recommends no more than 10%, and never paying the full amount before the work is done. Read the full guide

Use the WSIB's online clearance lookup, which is free and needs no login. Clearances are valid for up to 90 days. Read the full guide

The owner holds back 10% of each payment. It protects you against liens from unpaid subcontractors and suppliers. Read the full guide

Since January 1, 2026, you have 7 days to dispute a proper invoice in writing and 28 days to pay it. Read the full guide

Yes, if it is over $50. Ontario requires home renovation contracts over $50 to be in writing, including the work, materials, price and schedules. Read the full guide

Ask for a certificate of liability insurance with the insurer, dates and limit. We carry $2,000,000, and some towns ask for more for certain work, such as $5M for entrance work in Oro-Medonte. Read the full guide

Check six things before you buy: year-round road access, a water source, room for a septic bed with its setbacks, environmental mapping such as wetland or floodplain, zoning that allows a house, and cost drivers like rock, slope and fill. Read the full guide

The usual deal-breakers are zoning that does not allow a dwelling, no year-round road frontage, no room for a septic system with the required clearances, or most of the lot sitting in a regulated wetland or floodplain. Read the full guide

No. It means at least one deal-breaker needs an answer before you commit. Some have a fix and a price; some do not. Make your offer conditional so you have time to find out. Read the full guide

It depends on the house size and soil, but the bed must stay 15 m from a lake, 3 m from property lines, 5 m from the house and 15-30 m from wells. A septic designer works out the size; design goes through SepticReplacement.ca. Read the full guide

No. Tiny Township has no conservation authority. Wasaga Beach, Collingwood and Springwater are covered by the NVCA, which issues permits for work in regulated areas. Read the full guide

Yes. Book a site walk and we will look at access, trees, slope, drainage and where the septic can go, and tell you what the site work will involve. Read the full guide

Generally no. Tiny's Zoning By-law 22-075 prohibits using a tent, trailer or motor vehicle for human habitation, with an exception only where a house was destroyed by fire or an Act of God. Read the full guide

Yes, as a site office or storage. With a valid building permit, a construction trailer is allowed on the lot while work is in progress, for up to one year from permit issue. Read the full guide

The zoning by-law prohibits using a trailer or motor vehicle for human habitation outside a camping establishment. It allows uses incidental to construction, so ask the Township whether anything applies to your situation. Read the full guide

We did not find a clear rule allowing it in either by-law. Call Wasaga's Building Department at 705-429-1120 or Tay Building Services at 705-534-7248 and get the answer in writing. Read the full guide

Hydro One offers temporary service for construction sites. The standard transformer and meter material is free; you pay the labour and other material to install and remove it, and ESA must approve it first. Read the full guide

It needs an approved sewage system, such as a permitted holding tank that gets pumped, or the permanent septic installed early. Dumping on the ground is not allowed. Read the full guide

Due diligence, survey, permits, clearing, locates, entrance and driveway base, test pits and septic design, excavation, footings, backfill, service trenches, septic install, rough grade, driveway top, final grade, then topsoil and sod. Read the full guide

The base should. A solid granular base early gives every delivery truck something to drive on. The top layer goes on after the heavy trucks are finished. Read the full guide

A new septic bed must not be driven over by loaded trucks. Installing it after most heavy deliveries protects it. The design and permit happen much earlier. Read the full guide

No. Septic design is done through SepticReplacement.ca by a BCIN-qualified designer. We dig the test pits and install the system they design. Read the full guide

It depends mostly on permits and weather. Some steps have published timelines, such as the five-day legal window for locates, but the total varies a lot from lot to lot, so start the paperwork as soon as you firm up the purchase. Read the full guide

Sometimes, but be careful. Clearing a woodland of 1 ha or more is covered by the County by-law unless your building approvals are in place, and you should plan around bird nesting season. Read the full guide

As a rough 2026 planning range, about $45,000 to well over $150,000 before the house, covering septic, well, hydro, driveway, clearing and permits. Distance from the road, rock and trees move the number most. Read the full guide

Hydro One's Basic Connection, with a standard transformer, meter and up to 30 m of overhead secondary wire for up to 200 amps, is provided at no charge. You pay for extra wire, poles on your property, going underground and any line extension. Read the full guide

Green Building Canada gives an Ontario average of $9,000-$24,000, and deep or rocky wells cost more; one Ontario owner reported $33,000 for a 200 ft well with pump and tank. Budget roughly $12,000-$35,000+. Read the full guide

In 2026, about $25,000-$40,000 for a conventional system and up to $65,000+ for advanced or tertiary systems. Soil, water table and lot size decide which type you need. Read the full guide

Usually hydro on a lot far from existing lines, or a deep well on rock. Both can add five figures, so get answers before you waive conditions. Read the full guide

Not usually. In Tiny the septic permit is $637 and the entrance permit $230, plus a $5,000 grading deposit that is refundable. Building permit fees vary by town and house size. Read the full guide

Yes. A replacement can cost $25,000-$65,000+ in 2026, so a condition that lets you pump, inspect and check records is cheap insurance. Read the full guide

Send a file search request to Tatham Engineering, Tiny's approval agent. It costs $112 with a letter or $32 for a copy only. Read the full guide

$75, with a 3-5 business day turnaround. Apply to Tay Building Services at building@tay.ca. Read the full guide

It usually means an old system or one installed without a permit. Have it pumped, inspected and the bed checked before you firm up. Read the full guide

It can. Ask the seller for any re-inspection letter or deficiency notice; an unresolved deficiency becomes the buyer's to fix after closing. Read the full guide

Not always, but price in the pump-outs. Ask the seller how often and how much per season. Read the full guide

Grass is best. Low native grasses and a few shallow-rooted perennials are fine. Avoid vegetable gardens, shrubs and trees. Read the full guide

About 6 m, as shown in local Septic Smart guides. Water-loving trees like willows and poplars should be farther. Read the full guide

Not without approval. The cover depth is part of the design, so check with your township's sewage system staff before adding fill. Read the full guide

No. Hard surfaces block air and evaporation, and Tiny's re-inspection program lists them as a deficiency. Read the full guide

No, we do not warrant sod, because its survival depends on watering after it is laid. Weather and natural disaster damage are not covered either. Read the full guide

No, we do not hydroseed. We finish with fine-graded topsoil and sod. Read the full guide

The water in the pump chamber or holding tank has risen above the normal level, or an advanced treatment unit has a fault. Usually the pump is not running or the tank is full. Read the full guide

Use as little as possible, only toilet flushes when needed. Every bit of water you add fills the reserve space in the chamber. Read the full guide

Reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off and call your service company, because repeated resets can damage the pump. Read the full guide

No. Tanks hold gases that can overcome a person, and falling in can kill. Leave lids closed and let a professional open them. Read the full guide

On sand lots near the Bay the water table rises in spring. Groundwater leaking into the tank or a saturated bed can set off high-level alarms. Read the full guide

The service provider on your maintenance contract. They know the unit and its controls, and the contract is required anyway. Read the full guide

Have it inspected every 3 to 5 years and pumped when a third of the tank depth is sludge and scum. Tertiary units are serviced on their maintenance contract, often yearly. Read the full guide

Roughly $400-$800 in 2026. Tank size, travel distance, disposal fees and whether the lids are already exposed move the price. Read the full guide

No. Vehicles crush pipes and compact the soil, and driving on the bed is a common reason systems fail inspection. Read the full guide

No. Structures and hard surfaces over the bed or tank block access and air, and Tiny's inspectors flag them. Keep them about 5 m from the bed. Read the full guide

Not unless the system was designed for it. Route it elsewhere as allowed by your municipality. Read the full guide

No. The Tay Septic Smart guide says you do not need them. Regular pumping does the job. Read the full guide

Drain lines that could freeze, use only plumbing antifreeze in traps, leave snow on the bed for insulation, and ask your hauler before pumping a tank on a wet lot in late fall. Read the full guide

Because the spring water table is often too close to the surface to give about 900 mm of unsaturated soil under the stone. The bed is built up with imported sand to make up the difference. Read the full guide

Sand drains well and is usually good ground, but very fast sand treats effluent less and a high water table cancels out the benefit. Separation to groundwater is the real issue on beach lots. Read the full guide

Spring shows the high water table directly, which is the number the design depends on. Fall holes can work if the designer reads soil mottling carefully. Read the full guide

A layer of sand that extends out beyond the stone on a raised bed so effluent spreads into the native ground instead of breaking out the side. The designer sizes it. Read the full guide

Yes. Clearance distances grow with height, about 2 m extra for every 1 m of rise, which can matter a lot on a narrow cottage lot. Read the full guide

Roughly $30,000-$50,000 in 2026. Sand volume, truck access and whether a tertiary unit is needed move the number most. Read the full guide

The Township of Tiny issues them, with Tatham Engineering acting as its approval agent for all sewage system approvals. A new or replacement system permit is $637 in 2026. Read the full guide

Most towns aim for about 10 business days once the file is complete. Incomplete files in Collingwood run past 20 business days, and zoning review can add another week or two. Read the full guide

An application form, Schedule 1 for the designer, Schedule 2 for the installer, design calculations, a scaled site plan with all wells and water, a cross section, and soil information. Some towns also want a site evaluation report or test-hole inspection. Read the full guide

Some towns allow the owner to install on their own property; Springwater's guide says the owner or a licensed installer may do it. Anyone in the business of installing must be a registered installer with a BCIN, and you still need a qualified design and a permit. Read the full guide

Yes. Tiny requires a sewage system review for second units, additions and conversions, at $263 for the review and letter. An extra unit adds flow, so the existing bed may not be big enough. Read the full guide

Request a file search from the municipality. In Tiny it is $112 with a letter or $32 for a copy only through Tatham Engineering; Tay charges $75 with a 3-5 business day turnaround. Read the full guide

In Tiny the permit fee is increased by an extra 100% for construction without a permit. You still have to get the permit and pass the inspections, so the work has to be inspectable. Read the full guide

15 m from a drilled well with watertight casing at least 6 m deep, and 30 m from any other well, including dug wells and sand points. Read the full guide

At least 1.5 m from a structure, while the leaching bed needs at least 5 m. Read the full guide

The Code minimum is 15 m for both the tank and the bed. Local zoning can require more, so check your town's by-law. Read the full guide

3 m for the tank, bed or holding tank. A raised bed adds roughly 2 m of clearance for every 1 m of height. Read the full guide

Options include a tertiary unit with a smaller bed, rearranging the layout with a pump, upgrading a shallow well, or in narrow cases a holding tank. A qualified designer decides what works. Read the full guide

Yes. Clearances apply to any well, including the neighbour's, so a nearby dug well can force your bed 30 m away. Read the full guide

A conventional trench bed in good native soil, at roughly $25,000-$40,000 in 2026. It only works where you have the room and enough depth to water and rock. Read the full guide

It costs more than a plain bed because a service contract is mandatory. One owner review cites about $300 a year; budget $300-$600 a year plus pump-outs and eventual media replacement, and get the prices in writing first. Read the full guide

Under the Code a house tank holds at least twice the daily design flow and never less than 3,600 L, so a 4-bedroom house at 2,000 L/day needs about 4,000 L. Run the free septic check for your own numbers. Read the full guide

Because the ground does not give about 900 mm of separation between the stone and the water table, rock or tight soil. The bed is built up with imported sand to make that separation. Read the full guide

Usually not. Ontario guidance restricts holding tanks for new homes to narrow cases, and the ongoing pump-out cost is high. Read the full guide

Yes, the better-treated effluent allows a reduced bed, which is why they are common on small waterfront lots. The designer confirms the size for your site. Read the full guide

Slow drains and gurgling throughout the house, sewage smell outside, wet or spongy ground over the bed, and a strip of grass greener than the rest of the lawn. Read the full guide

It fixes a full tank and buys time, but it does not fix a failed bed. If wet spots return soon after pumping, the bed is likely the problem. Read the full guide

Effluent is getting close to the surface and feeding the grass. A slight difference can be normal; a bright strip or soggy ground means the bed is struggling. Read the full guide

Yes. Test your well water for bacteria regularly; Tay's guide suggests spring, summer and fall. A positive result near a struggling system needs action. Read the full guide

Tanks, baffles, pumps, filters and lines are usually repairable. A saturated bed with no other cause, or a system too small for the house, usually means replacement. Read the full guide

Roughly $25,000-$50,000 in 2026 for conventional, filter or raised beds, and $35,000-$65,000+ for a tertiary system. Read the full guide

A mandatory program where Tatham Engineering visually inspects septic systems in a different area of the Township each year, about a six-year cycle, and owners submit a pump-out report. Read the full guide

No. Inspectors check from the surface, leave a note, and contact you only if they need your help. Read the full guide

A written report from a licensed hauler on your tank's size and condition after a pump-out, or the latest service report if you have an advanced treatment unit. Read the full guide

You are notified in writing and must correct the deficiency. Minor items like moving a vehicle are free; a failed bed needs a permit and replacement. Read the full guide

Roughly $400-$800 in 2026. Tank size, travel and whether the lids are already exposed move the price. Read the full guide

According to the 2025 letter, vacant lots and systems installed in 2015 or later are not inspected. Read the full guide

Fall through winter. It avoids the early April to late August bird nesting period, frozen ground protects soft lots, and Tiny allows large land-clearing burns outside May 15 to September 30. Read the full guide

Yes. Every outdoor fire in Tiny needs a permit, and a land-clearing fire up to 6 m is a Class B burn that needs approval from the Chief Fire Official. Burning without a permit carries a $365 fine. Read the full guide

Not large ones. Tiny's by-law bans Class B land-clearing fires from May 15 to September 30, and all burning stops during a fire ban. Read the full guide

Not to cut trees, but yes before pulling stumps or digging. Ontario One Call locates are free at 1-800-400-2255, with a legislated 5 business day turnaround. Read the full guide

The federal rules protect active nests and eggs, not a calendar window, so clearing in season needs a nest check first and work around anything found. We schedule big clearing from October to March to avoid the problem. Read the full guide

Brush gets chipped, hauled or burned under permit, good logs can be milled on our portable sawmill, hardwood can be left as firewood, and stumps are ground or dug out depending on what goes there next. Read the full guide

Roughly 8 inches in diameter and up, and ideally 8 feet or longer. The NNRG milling guide says smaller logs usually are not worth it unless the species is valuable. Read the full guide

We price milling per job, based on the number and size of logs and whether we are already on site clearing. We do not publish a per-board-foot rate. Read the full guide

The old rule of thumb is about a year per inch of thickness when air drying, and thicker stock takes longer than that rule suggests. Check it with a moisture meter before using it indoors. Read the full guide

Structural lumber normally has to be graded, so ask your building department before planning on it. Beams for looks, siding, trim and paneling are the usual uses. Read the full guide

Trees grow around nails, wire and fence posts, and one hidden nail can ruin a blade and stain the wood. Fence-line and old farmyard trees are the most likely to have metal in them. Read the full guide

Yes, if they are still sound. Ash killed by emerald ash borer gets more brittle and checked the longer it stands, so mill it sooner rather than later. Read the full guide

Only if your property is 1 hectare (2.47 acres) or more and you are cutting woodland, under the County Forest Conservation By-law, unless your town has its own by-law. The County by-law does not restrict cutting to put up a building once approvals or permits are in place. Read the full guide

No. Tiny has no township tree by-law, so the County by-law is the one that applies, and only on woodland properties of 1 hectare or more. Read the full guide

Under By-law 2019-82, a first offence can bring a fine of up to $10,000 or $1,000 per tree, whichever is greater. Repeat offences go up to $25,000 or $2,500 per tree, and the court can order replanting. Read the full guide

Often, yes. Penetanguishene's by-law covers waterfront lots of any size, Innisfil requires approval on shoreline permit lands, and NVCA-regulated areas need a permit for site alteration. Read the full guide

Environment and Climate Change Canada puts Simcoe County in nesting zone C2, from early April to late August. You must still avoid active nests outside that window. Read the full guide

No. The building exemptions cover trees that have to come out for the building, its utilities and the driveway. Clearing beyond that can still need a permit on a lot that falls under a by-law. Read the full guide

Roughly $300-$800 for a small tree, $800-$1,500 for a medium tree, $1,500-$3,000 for a large tree and $3,000-$5,000 or more for an extra-large or crane job. Access, condition and what is underneath it move the number more than the height. Read the full guide

Usually not. Most removal prices leave a stump near ground level, and grinding or full excavation is priced separately, roughly $150-$1,200 or more per stump for grinding. Read the full guide

Ash killed by emerald ash borer goes brittle and can drop limbs without warning, so a climber cannot safely tie into it. It has to come down by machine or with careful rigging, and it gets worse the longer it stands. Read the full guide

Hydro One says owners maintain their own trees and it does not trim on private property beyond its safety requirements. It recommends a qualified arborist, offers a temporary disconnect once a year, and takes hazard calls at 1-888-664-9376. Read the full guide

Usually, yes. When the machines are already on site, trees are priced as part of the lot rather than one at a time, and stumps come out in the same visit. Our lot clearing ranges run from $2,500 for brush only up to $45,000 or more for dense mature forest. Read the full guide

Hire us when trees are coming out for a house, driveway, septic bed or clearing. Hire a certified arborist for a single big tree over your roof, a tree in the hydro lines, or a delicate removal in a finished yard. Read the full guide

Tiny has no township tree by-law. The County of Simcoe by-law applies only to woodlands of 1 hectare or more and does not restrict cutting to put up a building with permits in place. Read the full guide

Far enough that the excavation, trenches and new grade stay out of its root zone. Purdue's rule of thumb is a protected radius of 1.5 feet for every inch of trunk diameter, so a 16 inch tree needs about 24 feet. Read the full guide

Usually not. Purdue says as little as 2 inches of fill over the root zone can potentially kill a tree, and grading plans often raise yards far more than that. Read the full guide

Pines on sand near the Bay often root shallow, and once you clear around them they take wind they were never exposed to. A lone tall pine near a new house is one we usually recommend taking. Read the full guide

It can take years. Purdue says damaged trees may take years to show symptoms, which is why decline often shows up after you have moved in. Read the full guide

No. Roots go after the water in the bed and can plug distribution pipes, and the bed needs sun and grass. Trees near the tank and bed are ones we take during clearing. Read the full guide

During clearing, by a wide margin. With machines already on site it is minutes of work, while a later removal next to a finished house is a separate job, often $800-$3,000 or more. Read the full guide

Breaking rock with a hydraulic hammer can add roughly $10,000 to $40,000 or more depending on how much rock there is and how hard it is. Test holes before design tell you which end of that range you are in. Read the full guide

Blasting is done by a licensed specialist and is controlled by provincial specifications and local by-laws, including notices and pre-blast surveys. Check with your town building department before planning on it. Read the full guide

An inspector documents the condition of nearby buildings and wells before blasting so any later damage claim can be checked. Under OPSS.MUNI 120 it is offered within 75 m for shallow holes and 150 m for holes over 5 m deep. Read the full guide

The code table sets no minimum depth for footings on sound rock because rock does not heave. Your designer and inspector still decide how the footing is anchored and drained. Read the full guide

Often yes, by raising the grade with fill, installing a perimeter drain and sump, and pumping during the dig. On very wet lots a slab or crawlspace can be the better choice. Read the full guide

Usually. When there is not enough natural soil above rock or water, the designer specifies a raised bed on imported sand, which runs about $30,000 to $50,000 in 2026. Read the full guide

For a typical new house in sand with good access, a rough range is $8,000 to $20,000 for the dig. Clay, tight lots, rock and heavy trucking push it to $15,000 to $30,000 and beyond. Read the full guide

Rough 2026 ranges are $120 to $185 an hour for a mini excavator, $150 to $225 for a mid-size machine and $190 to $280 for a large excavator. Ask whether fuel, float and minimum hours are included. Read the full guide

Usually yes. Backfill and rough grading with your own stockpiled soil is often $2,500 to $8,000, more if fill has to be brought in. Read the full guide

Breaking rock with a hydraulic hammer can add $10,000 to $40,000 or more depending on how much rock and how hard it is. A good contract lists an hourly rate for rock work before digging starts. Read the full guide

The crew needs working space outside the footing to set and brace the forms and install drainage. We usually dig about 2 to 3 feet past the footing all around. Read the full guide

Fixed price suits a defined basement dig, hourly suits small or uncertain work. For basements we like a fixed price with written unit rates for rock and extra truck loads. Read the full guide

A rough range is $300 to $800 or more per tri-axle load, depending on distance and tipping fees. Keeping good soil on site for backfill and grading saves money twice. Read the full guide

Projects with less than 100 cubic metres of excess soil are generally exempt from most requirements, including the registry filing. The owner is still responsible for making sure soil is not contaminated and goes somewhere legal. Read the full guide

Roughly 10 tri-axle loads. A full basement dig can easily produce more than that, which is why keeping soil on site matters. Read the full guide

Starting January 1, 2027, landfills will generally be barred from accepting clean excess soil, with a few exceptions. Plan on reusing it or sending it to a proper reuse site. Read the full guide

Often yes. Many townships, including Springwater, Clearview and Severn, have fill or site alteration by-laws with their own thresholds. Check with your town before importing fill. Read the full guide

Keep topsoil separate, stockpile clean fill for backfill and grading, and haul out only the true surplus. Hauling out and buying back the same volume costs you twice. Read the full guide

A lab test showing the grain sizes in a sand product. The septic designer uses it to confirm the sand meets the bed specification before it goes in. Read the full guide

A rough 2026 range is $250 to $600 per tri-axle load of clean fill delivered, more for septic sand or topsoil. Distance from the pit is the biggest factor. Read the full guide

Plan on at least 1.2 m (4 ft) below finished grade. That is the code minimum for clay and uncertain soils, and local departments such as Wasaga Beach and Oro-Medonte ask for 48 inches on deck piers. Read the full guide

Roughly 1.2 to 1.5 m depending on soil, snow cover and exposure. Your building department has the final word for your lot. Read the full guide

Deeper than footings. Barrie's standard is a minimum 1.7 m trench for water services, and on rural lots we treat 1.5 to 1.8 m as normal, deeper under driveways. Read the full guide

The code table allows it next to heated space in well-drained coarse soils, but most local departments still ask for 1.2 m. Ask before you design around a shallower footing. Read the full guide

The code allows lesser depths where a foundation is designed for them, so an insulated shallow foundation needs a designer and building department approval. It is not a default option. Read the full guide

Yes, as long as the soil under them is not frozen and the concrete is protected while it cures. Expect extra cost for blankets, heat and slower work. Read the full guide

No. Frozen lumps leave voids that settle when they thaw and can push on new walls. Use unfrozen material or wait. Read the full guide

Yes. Public utility locates are free, and getting one before you dig is required by law in Ontario. Read the full guide

Use the online portal linked from the Ontario Dig Authority locates page, or call 1-800-400-2255. Have the address, dig area, depth and dates ready. Read the full guide

Submit at least 5 business days before digging for a single address, or 10 business days for large or multi-address work. Delays happen in busy seasons, so book early. Read the full guide

A minimum of 60 days. From November 1, 2026 a new optional rule allows digging to continue up to 180 days total if strict conditions are met. Otherwise get a new locate. Read the full guide

No. Private lines such as power to a shed, the pipe from your well, septic pipes and gas to a BBQ are not located. Hire a private locator for those. Read the full guide

It depends on the facts, but utilities may bill the property owner, as happened in a Brampton case reported by CTV. Make sure your contractor has valid locates and liability insurance before digging. Read the full guide

Hand dig within 1 metre of the markings. Machines stay back until the line is exposed and its depth is known. Read the full guide

Roughly $100 to $262.50 depending on the town in our table, for example $230 in Tiny, $250 in Tay and $130 in Oro-Medonte. County roads run $100 to $250 plus possible security. Read the full guide

The road authority, usually during its site inspection. It also sets the diameter, length and material, and the owner buys and installs it. Read the full guide

Whatever your permit says. Wasaga Beach sets a 400 mm minimum diameter, and Oro-Medonte sets a 7.0 m minimum length, but other towns size by the ditch. Read the full guide

A rough 2026 range is $1,500 to $4,500 supplied and installed for a new entrance. Bigger pipes, deep ditches and end protection push it up. Read the full guide

Some towns require it. Oro-Medonte asks for $5M liability for entrance work, and Wasaga Beach requires the contractor to carry $2M with the Town co-insured. Read the full guide

It varies. The owner is usually responsible for keeping it clear, and some towns such as Tay will clean or flush a blocked culvert on request. Read the full guide

Call the road authority first. Work in or near water can involve other agencies, so check before you tear out a dam. Read the full guide

Water sits on a flat surface, softens the base and tires dig it out. The lasting fix is a proper crown, a real Granular B base and somewhere for water to drain. Read the full guide

Granular A, because its fines pack hard when compacted. Round stone like pea gravel stays loose and rolls out. Read the full guide

Granular B is a coarser base material that carries load and drains. Granular A is a finer crushed top layer that compacts into a hard driving surface. Read the full guide

Scarify the surface, re-grade with a crown, add Granular A if the fines are gone, and compact. Slowing down on the lane helps too. Read the full guide

A rough 2026 range is $500 to $2,000 for a re-grade and re-crown, plus stone if needed. Soft spots and washouts cost more because they need digging and drainage. Read the full guide

Late spring after frost and half loads are off, or in the fall before winter. Early spring is soft and many roads limit heavy trucks. Read the full guide

On clay or wet soil, yes. It keeps the stone from sinking into the mud and makes the base last much longer. Read the full guide

At 3 m wide with 300 mm of Granular B and 150 mm of Granular A, about 95 tonnes of B and 47 tonnes of A, roughly 142 tonnes or 7 tri-axle loads. A 6 m wide double driveway doubles that. Read the full guide

We use about 22 tonnes as a working number for a tri-axle in normal season. During half loads in March and April the legal load on most township roads drops to 5 tonnes per axle, so expect much smaller loads or no deliveries at all. Read the full guide

Both. Granular B is the coarse base that carries the load and drains. Granular A is the crushed top layer that packs hard and smooth. On a top-up of a sound driveway you usually only need Granular A. Read the full guide

For a new driveway on sand, 300 mm of Granular B and 150 mm of Granular A is a solid build that will carry construction trucks. Clay or wet ground needs more base and usually geotextile. Read the full guide

On clean sand, usually not. On clay, silt or wet ground, a woven geotextile under the base keeps the gravel from pushing down into the mud and is cheap compared to replacing lost gravel. Read the full guide

It includes a rough range for a culvert supplied and set if you tick it. The entrance permit fee is separate; in Tiny Township it is 230 dollars and the Township decides whether you need a culvert and what size. Read the full guide

Our 2026 range is about $22,000 to $55,000 for 150 to 400 m and $50,000 to $120,000 or more past 400 m. Rock, wet ground, clearing and culverts drive the number. Read the full guide

We could not confirm one Ontario width that applies to private lanes serving houses or cottages. Ask your local fire department and municipality in writing before you build. Read the full guide

Yes. It should cover who pays, how costs are split, what maintenance is included and who approves big repairs. A FOCA survey found 29% of road associations had only a handshake deal. Read the full guide

A 2019 FOCA survey showed annual fees from $50 to $1,700, with one group of longer roads charging seasonal owners $265 to $300 and year-round owners $500 to $900. Read the full guide

In one Ontario case a court ordered a non-paying owner to pay his share of road upkeep because he benefited from it. Get legal advice for your own situation. Read the full guide

Most roads need a grading pass in spring after frost and again in fall, with gravel top-ups and culvert cleaning as needed. Read the full guide

Have the operator raise the blade or use shoes on gravel, stake culverts and edges, avoid plowing during thaws, and budget a spring pass to pull gravel back. Read the full guide

As a rough range for 2026, regrading a band around an existing house runs about $1,500-$5,000 and a full yard about $4,000-$12,000. Fill volume, access and soil type move the number most. Read the full guide

A yard French drain with perforated pipe, clear stone and filter cloth runs roughly $35-$90 per linear foot installed in 2026. Replacing the weeping tile around a foundation is a much bigger job, often $150 per foot and up. Read the full guide

In sand, usually yes. In heavy clay a dry well tends to fill up and stay full, so grading and swales to a proper outlet are the better spend. Read the full guide

Regrading an existing yard usually needs no building permit, but you cannot redirect collected water onto a neighbour. New builds need an approved lot grading plan, and lots regulated by a conservation authority such as NVCA may need its permit. Read the full guide

Only up to a point. Keep the finished grade at least 150 mm below siding or brick, as Wasaga Beach's checklist requires, or you trade a basement leak for a rotten wall. Read the full guide

Usually not. Sod is quoted as its own line, and sod is not covered by any warranty from us because it depends on watering and weather. Read the full guide

$5,000 per lot, paid with the building permit application. It is returned without interest once the final grading certificate is accepted and occupancy is granted. Read the full guide

Apply in writing within 3 years of permit issue, with an accepted Lot Grading Plan Certificate and occupancy granted. Miss the deadline and the deposit is forfeited unless you asked for an extension before it ran out. Read the full guide

In Tiny, a Professional Engineer, Ontario Land Surveyor or Certified Engineering Technologist qualified in grading and drainage. Wasaga's infill policy calls for a P.Eng. or C.E.T. Read the full guide

A certificate, done once footings are formed, confirming the underside of footing matches the grading plan. Tiny allows a 100 mm tolerance. Read the full guide

Wasaga's Infill Lot Grading and Drainage Policy lists a $1,000 deposit and a $375 review fee, with 24 months to finish and certify. Confirm current amounts with the Town. Read the full guide

Poorly defined swales, grade too high against the siding, settled backfill, unapproved changes such as patios or fences, missing splash pads and sod that has not established. Read the full guide

Natural surface water running downhill generally has no right of drainage and is usually not grounds for a lawsuit. Collected water, from a roof, pipe, pool or tile drain, must not be diverted onto land that would not naturally receive it. Read the full guide

Usually not. Tiny says it does not enforce grading or drainage issues on private property, though building departments do check grading on houses still under construction. Read the full guide

Under the common law a lower owner can generally block natural surface water, for example with a berm. It can pond water on the higher lot, so talk to the neighbour first and get advice if it is contentious. Read the full guide

It is a shared drainage system built and maintained through the municipality after a petition by owners of at least 50% of the properties or 60% of the land in the area. Costs are shared among the owners who benefit. Read the full guide

Video during rain, a dated log of events and damage, photos of the source, your survey, any approved grading plan and a note of what changed and when. Read the full guide

No. The same rule applies to you: collected water must go to a legal outlet, not onto land that would not naturally receive it. Read the full guide

Not for most disputes, which end with a turned downspout or a swale. If there is real damage or the neighbour refuses to talk, a property lawyer is the right next call. This page is not legal advice. Read the full guide

Usually because surface water is collecting against the foundation. Downspouts ending at the wall, ground sloping toward the house and settled backfill are the most common causes. Read the full guide

A common rule of thumb is a 6 inch drop in the first 10 feet, about 5%, from the US residential code. Ontario grading plans set their own minimums, such as 2% away from buildings in Tiny and Wasaga Beach. Read the full guide

At least 2 m from the foundation, or into a swale, according to the Intact Centre basement flood checklist. Make sure the water does not then run back toward the house or onto a neighbour. Read the full guide

No. Tiny's April 2026 notice says sump pumps and other private drainage must not be discharged into the road or municipal storm network, and its lot grading procedure prohibits discharge to a municipal ditch. Read the full guide

Backfill settles for a few years after construction. Top it up with clean fill and topsoil so the slope runs away from the house again, and keep the grade below the siding. Read the full guide

When water comes through one crack every time, rises through the floor regardless of rain, or traces back to plumbing. Those need a foundation, drainage or plumbing contractor. Read the full guide

With 2 x 2 x 4 ft stones and 1 m of exposed height, about 17 stones per course and 2 courses, so roughly 34 pieces or 36 tonnes. Bigger stones mean fewer pieces but more tonnes. Read the full guide

Limestone weighs about 2.6 tonnes per cubic metre. Allowing for irregular shapes, a 2 x 2 x 4 ft stone is about 1.1 tonnes, a 2 x 3 x 5 ft about 2 tonnes, and a 3 x 3 x 6 ft about 3.6 tonnes. Read the full guide

As a rough 2026 range, we use 300-500 dollars per tonne of stone installed, which includes trucking, the base, drainage stone, filter cloth and placement. Access, height and shoreline work move it most. Read the full guide

A retaining wall over 1 m of exposed height next to public property, building access or private property open to the public needs a permit and engineered drawings. Shoreline work usually needs approvals regardless of height. Read the full guide

Water behind a wall adds a lot of pressure. Clear stone gives the water a path out, and filter cloth keeps soil from clogging that stone over time. Read the full guide

We usually set the bottom course 150-300 mm below finished grade on a compacted clear stone pad, so the toe of the wall cannot slide out. Read the full guide

Roughly $30-$60 per square foot of wall face installed in 2026. A 40 ft wall with 3 ft showing works out to about $3,600-$7,200 on easy access. Read the full guide

About $45-$95 per ton for the stone, before delivery. Small stones cost more per ton than large ones. Read the full guide

Limestone is about 2.6 tonnes per cubic metre, so a 2 x 2 x 4 ft stone is roughly 1.1 tonnes and a 3 x 3 x 5 ft stone about 3.2 tonnes. Read the full guide

Installed prices overlap, roughly $30-$60 per square foot for armour stone and $30-$55 for block. Armour stone usually wins on slopes and near water, block on tidy patio edges. Read the full guide

A wall over 1 m of exposed height next to public property, a building access or property open to the public needs a building permit and engineered drawings. Shoreline walls can need conservation authority, provincial or federal approvals at any height. Read the full guide

Only with the right permits. NVCA says shoreline work needs a permit first, the Province may need a work permit for erosion structures on shore lands, and in-water work can trigger federal review. Read the full guide

Water and frost behind the wall. Without filter cloth, clear drainage stone and a pipe at the base, water builds up, freezes and pushes the wall out. Read the full guide

Let the backfill settle, final grade to the lot grading plan, get the grading certificate, spread topsoil, lay sod, then do the driveway top coat and fences last. Read the full guide

Tay requires at least 2% for a minimum of 5.0 m from the house, and Wasaga Beach requires at least 2.0%. Finished grade should also sit at least 150 mm below the cladding. Read the full guide

Tiny holds $5,000 per lot. Once the grading is done and certified by your engineer, surveyor or technologist, claim it in writing within 3 years. Read the full guide

At least 150 mm, which is the minimum Wasaga Beach requires on disturbed areas. On sandy lots, less than that is the most common reason new sod fails. Read the full guide

Not properly. Frozen ground cannot be shaped or checked, and Tay warns that inspections may be delayed in winter because the grade has to be visible. Read the full guide

Not always. Wasaga Beach looks for established sod at sign-off, so give it time to root before you book the final inspection. Read the full guide

Take the lawn area in square feet, add 5-10% for cutting waste and divide by the roll size. With 10 sq ft rolls, a 1,076 sq ft lawn (100 square metres) needs about 116 rolls at 7% waste. Read the full guide

We use 500 sq ft as a default, but farms vary, so check the pallet size on your quote and change it in the Advanced section of the calculator. Read the full guide

As a rough 2026 range, sod delivered, laid and rolled on a prepared grade runs about 1.50-3.00 dollars per square foot. Prep, topsoil and access move the number most. Read the full guide

100-150 mm of screened topsoil is the usual target. On straight sand, closer to 150 mm holds moisture better and helps the sod root. Read the full guide

No. We do not warranty sod, because whether it survives depends on watering and weather after we leave. Damage from bad weather and natural disasters is not covered either. Read the full guide

No, we do not do hydroseeding. We lay sod, and we can leave the grade and topsoil ready if you want to seed it yourself. Read the full guide

Roughly $1.70-$3.50 per square foot installed in 2026. Soil prep, topsoil and access move the final number. Read the full guide

Screened topsoil runs roughly $33-$50 per cubic yard delivered, and triple mix about $55-$70 per yard. Delivery is often a separate charge per load. Read the full guide

Plan on 100-150 mm (4-6 in), and at least 150 mm on sandy lots. Wasaga Beach requires a minimum of 150 mm of topsoil on disturbed areas before sod. Read the full guide

About 12.3 cubic yards at 100 mm (4 in) and about 18.5 cubic yards at 150 mm (6 in). Order a little extra for settling. Read the full guide

Screened topsoil for the lawn, triple mix for garden beds. Triple mix costs noticeably more per yard and is not needed under the whole lawn. Read the full guide

Not by us. Sod is not warranted because its survival depends on watering and weather after it is laid, and weather damage is not covered. Read the full guide

No, we do not hydroseed. We can grade and spread topsoil ready for seed if you would rather seed than sod. Read the full guide

Plan on 100-150 mm of screened topsoil under sod. For 100 square metres at 150 mm that is 15 cubic metres finished, about 17 cubic metres or 23 cubic yards to order once you add 15% for settling. Read the full guide

A tri-axle usually carries around 18-20 cubic yards of topsoil before the box is full. Heavier material like fill sand hits the weight limit, about 22 tonnes, before the box is full. Read the full guide

Topsoil is loose when it is delivered. Once it is spread, rolled and rained on, it packs down. Ordering 15% extra means you end up at the depth you wanted instead of short. Read the full guide

Triple mix is topsoil blended with peat and compost. It is better for gardens but lighter, pricier and settles more, so plain screened topsoil is the usual choice under sod. Read the full guide

As a rough 2026 range, screened topsoil runs about 35-60 dollars per cubic yard delivered in full loads, so a 20-yard load is roughly 700-1,200 dollars before HST. Distance to the supplier moves the number most. Read the full guide

Sometimes. Many townships have site alteration or fill by-laws, and fill near a wetland or shoreline can need a conservation authority permit. Check with the township before the first load. Read the full guide